Method of manufacturing shoes.



.40 produces a shoe in whichare securedeertain eratlon of drawing' tlieju'pper inwar UNITED l sun/aires .PATENT FRANK W. MERRrCK, orv BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, 4AssrcrNon To UNIONY Loox STITCH l COMPANY, 0F BosToN, MASSACHUSETTS, A ConPoRATIoNVoF MAINE.. f

METITCD or MANUFACTUMNG'SHCES. i

1,093,563, c specification of Letters Patent. Patented Apr, 14,1914., -'Original'application led Hay 20, 1911, Serial No. 628,379. Divided and this. application Med December 17, 1913.v Serial No. 807,240.

- l tral .portion of the 'tread-surface'ofalast Be itknown that I, FRANK W. Mannion, vmth the marginal portion of :the latter a citizen of the UnitcdOStates, residing at tread-surface .projecting outwardl beyond Boston, in the county of Suii'ollr, State'of the outer marginof the tread-surface of the 5l Massachusetts, have invented a certain neW insole.' I apply an upper'to lthe .l'ast and and useful Im rovement in Methods of -bend itaroundtheedge of the lastg/drawingO ManufacturingISJhoes, of which the followit inward upon the4 exposedv marginal-por. ing is a specification, Vreference being had tion of the tread-surface 'of the last to andV 1 therein tothe accompanying drawings. against the said continuation of theinsole The present invention is a division ofthat tread-surface immediately *at the bench4v l`v of my application for U. S.. Let-ters Patent then'apply a Welt, stitch the inseam, 66 for improvements inv welt shoes and insoles the inseam, aplply'an outsole,`yand connect/the forfsame, led May 20, A1911, Serial No. outsole with t e welt by an oiItseam. 628,379, and consists in the novel and im-4 In ,the practice ,of Vmy metho'd ,usually proved method of manufacturing welt shoes make the insoles' of. cloth, which-' isjnotl L vby which I produce the shoe thatis shown, adapted to be channeled or groovedtgformftfj described and claimed in thesaid-applica 'a lipor shoulderto receivethe stithesgf tion. The said shoe bears a resemblance an` inseamo 4'of thin flexiblemateriali'lwk structurally to shoes of the Goodyear 'sweltl ing; the. thickness requisite to type, in'that it has a welt which is attached .channeling or groovmg. 'This l'elioiefe off-.ff

by means 'of an inseam to-an upper and-'an-v J materials conduces to great flexibility-Y d "ls insole, and to'which an outer sole is attached' pli-ability of the finishe shoes, land rt'sijby means of an cutseam. It has the appear a material saving'in cost. Anz-insole ance and all of the ldesirable characterlstics by. thestepsjformlng a portion-of my of a shoe of thesaid type, including tl' e has no feather contmumg the. treud-s!1 `1ifg' ,fA

snug fit, shapeliness, and durability thereof, of the insole outward beyond the cd'gefitlangejQM- ['o all whom it may concern:

While at the same time it'is so constructed or lip'which receives the inseu.m-`st, itc' hes .A

as to bev free 'from .certain` drawbackslof In order to secure.anundersetjnseam'with-- shoes of the said type. as heretofore made, the upper over-hanging andbulgin Aoutv ts' ,r

possesses the ease and comfort, and" the shape/ end appearance to the; shoe,l Ijempfo'y e smooth and flexibletread, of. a, shoeof the a last havinga rounded-'or chamferedqarw" i stitch-down type. i' .f ginal reduction around theftreadfsurfac of Y By my improved and novel methodzfthe its sole. Thesaid marginal reducti operations of manufacture are simplified, the -v ch'amfer is located' inward relative number of operations :aire reduced,'andfcer laterally. bulgin .body ofthe-lags tain machines and parts of machines at resvafter theinsole as been apyliedioth f A ent in use in the manufacure of Gooyear tral portion ofethe'sole of ft eilastfn welt shoesare dispensedV with. My method 'upper has. becnapplied .to thc. -last, ;the"" results which arenot secured fin shoeslof the' vflange or y-li p` ofthe 'insolefiy'vill Goodyear 'welt type as lat present manufacpeninwardaround the lexposed' s i'oiuifded tured, or in vshoes of any, other type, chamferedmargin O f l.the sole', andthe'mar Briefly statefd, in proceeding accordin to ginal reduction'of the. la'stjwill alf'dthgq my method of making a Weltshoe my rst fnec'essary 'clearance 'to' enable; the'fsttclistep'consists in roducin` an insole-by tak forxnin fdevicesfof 'thesewing machine by 10o. inga thin lexib e insole. lankandv forming .which t einseam is stitched, toform the in- --.a.n upstanding 'edgeflange orV lip thereon by.' seamat a-'polnt inwardly-located.upon the.'v

'a bend around the mar'gl'n of the said blank V tread-surface bf the sole of the last. l' g 50 defining the extreme 'outer boundary of the vThe steps 'ofmymethd are illustrated in] Vtread-'surface of the insole, and so ythat )al `the; drawings, in Which,` jwcontinuation of the said tread-surfa`ce forms lFigure 1 shows in' pers' tive: the insole 'the exterior o f the flange or lip atthebend. with its molded iange..'V ig. 2 isjn'glvew.' I then apply ythe prepared insole tothe cene thereofv in cross-section on line 2, 2,

with, with the .outer soleconnected to the y welt by the outseam.

Referrin to the drawings, as above'referredto, subject the blank for the insole l to anoperation Iby which its marginal por. tion is molded to form the upstanding flange 2. Theangle I which the flange is caused to assume with relation to the plane of the tread-surface of the insole may vary in practice. In producing the insole, I take a blank of proper size, of a thin `iieirible material, and form thefiange thereon by a simple bending of themarginal or edgefportion of the blank so as to cause it to stand at the required angle to the said plane, and by means of the bending operation I caus'el the ange to become set in the desired position.

Along the line of the bend, the insole is without any channel or groove, and consequently the entire thickness of the marginal portion of the insolejalong` the line of the bend is included in the bend. The outer face of theflange is a continuation of that surface of the body-portion, z'. e.,`intermediate portion ofthe insole, which in the lasting operation facesuthe sole of the last 4l, and which during the wearing of the shoe receivesthe rlirect 'pressure of the wearers foot. Cons r "quently, the insole has nol so-called feather.

In Figs. 3, 4, 5, the upper is marked 3,

and 4 is the lastr within the upper, 5 being the welt. A lining isindicated at m. In folA lowing out my method l. apply the prepared insole of Figs. l and 2 Ato the last las in Fio. 3, ydraw the u er and lining inward n a i around and over the marg1n of the last, vand place the margins of the upper and lining directly vagainst the outerl'surface of the.,

molded flange 2, as in Fig. 'Ialsoplace a welt 5 against the exterior of the upper as inA saidV figure, and secure the welt, upper, lining, and insole together by a line o`f stitches 6 passing through the `entire thickness of the Harige and located at the angle or bend of the la'tter, thereby forming the inseam, the result being as shown in Fig. 3.

- The flange serves as a guide during the stitching operation, and preserves or maintains the regularity of the stitching. I thenf trim off the margins of the welt, upper, lining, and molded insole-flange close to the 1nseain, as in Fig. 4L., after which l flatten out f rthe welt so as to cause it to stand out. I

and a feather.

then apply a cushion 7 to the exposed outer surface of the insole, within the trimmed molded flange, and next apply an outer sole 8, fastening said outer sole to the welt by means lof stitches 9 passing vertically through the welt and the sole 8 and constisuitable tough and flexible material, such for instance as cloth, which would not permit a cutting or channeling operation. Soft or chrome-tanncd leathers may also be employed. Bybending the insole without cutting or channeling, I am enabled to retain the entire strength of the material of the insole without diminution, and to get the benefit of the toughness of the grain side of the leather when that remains on the insoleblank, the grain being the toughestportion of the leather.

My method dispenses with the usual operation of channeling the insole to form a lip It omits the feather altogether, but nevertheless enables the same overhan of the upper of the shoe to be attained at heretofore has necessitated the formation of a feather upon the insole of a welt shoe. It renders unnecessary the employment of channel-openers and the like and the sewing machine by which the inseam is sewed. It allows the use of an insole of extremely'fiexible material. The omission of.A a feather secures in the completed shoe the advantage that there is nothing to form a ridgebeneath .the wearers foot, and to curl out of shape and hurt the foot.

As I have; stated above, the flange of the insole serves as a guide hduring the stitching operation, and preserves or maintains the regularity of the stitching. The stitching is gaged from the innerv angle of the bend of the flange with relation to the body of theinsole, and the upper and lining are held close against the outer surface of the flange, thereby securing regularity in the shape of the shoe. s, 1

'shoe made` by my method has extreme fiexibility in the sole thereof, attained by so shaping the insole as to permit a firm inseam to be secured on stock that is unfitted or too thin to be channeled. The shoe is absolutely smooth inside, inasmuch as the edge of the insole is so secured to the welt and upper that the margin of the insole cannot turn up in course of drying after being moistened to forni a ridge to hurt the wearers foot.

l claim as my invention l. The improved method of making a welt shoe which comprises the. steps of taking a thin flexible insole-blank, producing an upstandingedge-Harige or lip thereon by a bend around the margin et' the vvsaid blank delining the. extreme outer boundary of the.

trezul-surface et' the insole and so that a continuation ot' said tread-Surface forms .the eX- Lerior oi' the llange or lip at-the bend, then applying the prepared insole to the central portion of the tread-surface ot a last. ywith thi` marginal portion of the latter' tread-'suriaee projecting' outwardly' beyond the outer margin oi the tread-surface of the insole, then applying an upper to the last and bending it around the edge ot' the last, drawing" it inward upon the exposed marginal portion of the trezul-surt'are and last and against the continuation of the insole tread-surface immediately at the bend. and then applying a weit. stitching' an inseam. trimming the inseam. applyingY an outsole, and connecting the outsole with the' welt by an outseam.

'l`he improved method of making a welt shoe which eomprises the steps of taking a thin flexible insole-blank. producingr an upstanding` edge-thingie or lip thereon byv a bend around the margin ot' the said blank deining' the extreme outer boundary of the Meinl-surface ot' the insole, with the whole substanre of the insole extending to the said boundary and a continuation of the said' trezul-surt'aee forming' the exterior of the flange or lip. then applyinj;l the prepared in .sole lo the central portion of they tread-surface oi a last with the marginal portion of the latter tread-surface, projecting outwardly beyond the outer margin of the tread-surface et the insole, then applying an upper to the last and bending it around the. edge oi they last, drawing' it.- inwardupon l the exposed projecting marginal portion of l the treinl-sln'laee of the last and against the continuation ot' the insole tread-Surface immediatelr at the bend, then placing a welt inseam, lrinuninpl the salne,.applyin,g an outby an outseam.

shoe which comprises the steps oi' taking a thin tiexible insole-blank` tormilng an upstanding' edgetlange or lip thereon by a bend around the margin of the said blank lrezul-surface o'l the insole and /iso as to change the direction ot the continuation of such surf-are at the bend, then applying' the prepared insole to the "central portion of the treadsurtace ot a last having a rounded or chamtered marginal reduction ot' its-.treadsuriare located externally with relationto the outer margin ot' the insole,'the1`1 applying' an upperto the last and bending it in- 'ard around and upon the rounded or chamfered marginal portion of the tread surface of the last and against the outer surtace of the iange oi the insole, then placing a welt against the flange of the upper', then forming: an inseam located 'inside the circuit of the rounded or chamfered margin, then trimming said inseam, then applying' the outsole. and then connectingr the outsole with the welt by an outseam. Y

In testimony whereof I afiiX my signature in presence of two witnesses.

FR A NK V.- MERRTCK.

ll'litnesses Citas. F. RANDALL,

llmiicx 0. QPRING.

sole, and connecting the outsole with the welt 3. The improved method of making a welt defining the extreme outer boundary of ther against the flange ot" the upper, makingan y 

